11th and 12th March West Chimney and Fluted Buttress Direct

On thursday Ian, Steve and i climbed West Chimney in Stob Coire Nan Beith (Glencoe). The route was in excellent condition. However, it was raining at all levels. Other teams were seen approaching No.6 Gully and Deep Cut Chimney.

We headed to the Gorms today in hope of better weather and climbed Fluted Buttress Direct. The route was in good condition apart from crucially the first ten metres at the start of the crux pitch. This gave bold climbing with insecure placements e.g. very little ice. The new Scottish Winter Climbs suggests in these conditions it can be V 5 and this felt about right. One other team was spotted on Fingers Ridge.

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