25th to 29th July Zermatt 4000 metre peaks

The summit ridge of the Duforspitze. The Matterhorn is poking through the clouds.
The Breithorn summit with the Matterhorn in the background.
Climbers approaching Pollux and Castor.

I have just had an excellent week in and around Zermatt. On monday we climbed Pollux via its south west ridge. This gives a nice mixed ridge followed by a snow ridge leading to the summit. We descended from here to stay at the very welcoming Valle D’Ayas Guides Hut. The next morning we traversed Breithorn West and Central before the weather broke. The ridge between these two peaks is knife edge in places with a good view down the steep north face.

From wednesday to friday we have been based at the Monte Rosahutte. This is an excellent, comfy new hut. From this hut we climbed the Duforspitze which is the second highest peak in Western Europe. The final ridge and descending ridge and fixed ropes provided some enjoyable, exposed mixed ground.

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