Today John and I climbed the Alphubel (4206m) from the Tasch Hutte. We ascended via the South East Ridge and descended via the Voie Normale.
The approach to the col which gives access to the ridge is incredibly dry for this time of year. Sharp crampons are needed on the very hard glacial ice.
The South East Ridge was good fun. We had to do pitches using ice screws for belays and protection on the Ice Nose.
The Voie Normale crosses several lines where seracs have fallen down.
A 3am breakfast and efficient movement are currently essential to get the mountain in reasonable condition.