Today Euan, Nettle and I chased the good weather across to Ben Lomond’s North-East Coire. We’d intended to climb Lomond Corner, but Euan climbed then down climbed part of the first pitch having decided the turf wasn’t suitably frozen on this route.
We then moved higher in the coire and climbed what we think was Solo Buttress on B Buttress. It’s a complex crag, it was a new crag to all of us and the descriptions in the old “Arran, Arrochar and the Southern Highlands” guidebook are a little vague. We think this line may have also been climbed on the 26th November and recorded on UKClimbing as a new route called Turf Dance. This line gave us three pitches of pleasant climbing in a stunning situation although gear and belays weren’t great.
This crag is heavily reliant on turf for climbing and protection and it’s important the routes are only climbed when the turf is well frozen.
