Buachaille Etive Mor

Today John, Graeme, Ian and Neil from Falkirk Community Trust and I had a great day climbing Crowberry Gully on The Buachaille. This classic Scottish winter climb can vary considerably with conditions. Today it was in good condition with the crux being just above the junction, where the ice was thin, but solid, giving a section of bold climbing on good ice which wasn’t thick enough for screws.

Neil in the depths of Crowberry Gully
Neil in the depths of Crowberry Gully

The sun was stripping some rime and snow from the wall on the right hand side of the gully and this was falling in to the gully, particularly in the lower section, so an early start is recommended if the sunny weather continues.

Graeme and Ian
Graeme and Ian

Below freezing in the gully all day. Buttresses exposed to the sun were stripping and looking pretty black with rock generally dry. Sunshine for most of the day (although shaded in the gully). No significant wind. Conditions on the descent via Coire na Tulaich were good. Quite a lot of icing around. No significant wind slab encountered on the route or descent. Quite a lot of surface hoar around.

The walk off in superb weather
The walk off in superb weather
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