For the past week Ivor, Martin and I have been climbing in the States of Utah and Colorado. As well as climbing many great pitches of rock we have also climbed some stunning towers in Colorado’s Monument Valley and Arches National Park near Moab. Here are a few thoughts on how to maximise your time here;
- Begin your trip at Wall Street, Moab. Maybe the best road side crag in the world?
- Buy Ocun crack climbing gloves.
- At wall street do not put any kit down in the vegetation. The burrs are very painful to the touch.
- McStiffs (Moab) does great smoothies which are a real treat after a tough session in the sun.
- Staff at Pagan Mountaineering (Moab) are very helpful and offer good guidance on routes and venue’s.
- The new ‘High on Moab’ guidebook is excellent.
- The Mountain Project website has lots of useful information including a number of desert towers not mentioned in the ‘High on Moab’ or ‘Supertopo’ guidebooks.
- Root Canal on Molar Tower is a good first chimney to try. Much easier than North East Chimney on Off Balanced Rock which receives an easier grade.
- American climbers are very friendly on belay and abseil stations. It is not necessary to adopt a European stance ethic!
- The walk to Independence Monument is one hour not forty minutes.
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