Thursday 17th February Loch Avon Basin

Bruce, Ali and I headed over to The Loch Avon Basin today with the intention of climbing on Hell’s Lum. However, by the time we arrived the sun was catching the crag and a fair amount of ice/sun wheels were coming down from the crag. There were two parties who looked to be heading for Deep Cut Chimney and a party further right on Kiwi Gully I think.

Ali with Coire an t-Sneachda behind showing the depth of the recent snow

We headed over to Stag Rocks and climbed something around The Accidental Tourist (a line between that and Truly Madly Chimbley). Starting as for The Accidental Tourist the 1st pitch followed a steep groove and small chimney (rather than heading left) to belay on a rib just left and below the chimney of T.M.C. ; the 2nd pitch moved through a v-notch and up slabs/overalps and the 3rd pitch was up easy snow slopes. Overall about tech 4 on the day, but quite bold in places with some relatively cruddy snow and ice.

Party on Afterthought Arete, Stag Rocks

North facing crags have large build ups of wind slab (see photo of Coire an t-Sneachda). The south facing crags still had a layer of fresh snow on top of older snow. The sun was stripping ice/snow from the south facing crags during the day with water running behind ice on rocks. The turf was well frozen. Light winds and no precipitation during the day.

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