Torridon

The last three days I’ve been based in Torridon with a Falkirk Community Trust Climbing Team of John, Doug, Graeme, Joanne and Neil and a High Tops Team of Craig, Isobel, Duncan, Lorn, Kay, Mary, Norrie, Sally, Sarah.

John leading the first pitch of West Coast Boomer and Joanne belaying.
John leading the first pitch of West Coast Boomer and Joanne in the foreground.

On Saturday the climbers team went to see if West Coast Boomer on Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin, was climbable. Unfortunately, it was only thinly iced and John, Graeme and Joanne climbed three pitches before breaking out to the buttress on the left. Doug, Neil and I climbed a line up the buttress on the left starting just left of the gully and weaving up through the sandstone walls and terraces. The lines merged higher up and finished just left of the gully not far from the summit of Tom na Gruagaich. Meanwhile Craig and the walkers had a good day on Slioch.

Neil and Doug belaying high on the buttress on Saturday.
Neil and Doug belaying high on the buttress on Saturday.

On Sunday the climbers headed around to Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe and climbed Fuselage Gully. This gave easy Grade I climbing except at a bergshrund like feature after the left fork and the step up to the propeller, which with current build up had a couple of moves of 4. The walkers took in the two Munros on Beinn Eighe and descended via Coire Mhic Fhearchair.

John leading the tricky step in Fuselage Gully and making the most of some of Scottish climbing's more unusual holds.
John leading the tricky step in Fuselage Gully and making the most of some of Scottish climbing’s more unusual holds.

On Monday we needed a shorter day, so the climbers went to Diabeg and climbed the excellent scramble of the West Spur of Meall Ceann na Creige in sunshine and showers, whilst the walkers visited the two Munros on Beinn Alligin.

Neil and Joanne on the upper slabs of Meall Ceann na Creige.
Neil and Joanne on the upper slabs of Meall Ceann na Creige.

Three excellent days in a stunning area. Ice is forming, but none of the major ice lines we saw appeared to be in condition yet. Turf where insulated is unfrozen. Snow has been building at height throughout our stay and is generally still unconsolidated. It’s worth noting that within the snowpack there are pockets of a very weak graupel layer. More snow forecast at height in the area over the next few days, so if visiting it’s definitely worth checking out the SAIS forecast for and planning your days accordingly. I’ll put more photos on the Climbnow Facebook page.

 

 

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